{"id":33232,"date":"2024-09-05T10:08:14","date_gmt":"2024-09-05T14:08:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/philarockgym.com\/?p=33232"},"modified":"2024-09-05T10:08:54","modified_gmt":"2024-09-05T14:08:54","slug":"a-quick-intro-to-climbing-terms","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/philarockgym.com\/a-quick-intro-to-climbing-terms\/","title":{"rendered":"A Quick Intro to Climbing Terms"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
All sports have their jargon and climbing is no exception. In fact, climbing is more saturated with jargon than any other sport we know. What follows is a very brief list of key climbing terms that we use in this guide, and in the gyms, plus a few more just for fun.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
A Climb:<\/strong> A generic term for a route or\u00a0a boulder problem.<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Boulder Problem: <\/strong>A short climb (typically between 6 and 15 feet above the ground) where falling is typically protected by pads on the ground.<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Route: <\/strong>A longer climb (typically 20 feet or more above the ground) where falling is typically protected by a rope.<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Send:<\/strong> To complete a climb from start to finish without a fall. (past tense: sent)<\/p> Types of Sends:<\/strong><\/p> Onsight: <\/strong>To send a climb you have never been on, seen before, or had any information about on your first attempt.<\/p> Flash<\/strong>: To send a climb on your first try having seen someone else on it or having prior information about the climb. Note: Some climbers will use Onsight and Flash interchangeably.<\/em><\/p> Red-Point:<\/strong> \u00a0\u00a0 To send a climb without a fall, regardless of the number of attempts or prior information about the climb.<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Crux:\u00a0<\/strong>The most difficult section of a route or boulder problem.\u00a0Typically used to determine the\u00a0grade.<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Move<\/strong>: The basis for calculating Volume\u00a0in a workout. One move is defined as the act of taking one hand off its current hold and putting it on another.\u00a0<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Sequence<\/strong>: A series of moves within a route or boulder problem. For\u00a0example, the crux sequence on a problem would be the hardest\u00a0set of moves.\u00a0<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Project<\/strong>: A route or boulder problem that\u00a0you are working on, but have not yet sent. Typically used to set\u00a0goals.\u00a0<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Grade<\/strong>: The difficulty of a climb<\/a>. In\u00a0the U.S., expressed as either a V-grade for bouldering (e.g. V2) or a YDS grade for routes (e.g. 5.8).\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Repetition: <\/strong>Also called a rep, <\/em>these are the foundation of a set. One set<\/em> contains a specific number of reps.<\/em><\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Run: <\/strong>Within a given set, a run <\/em>is completing a climb that is part of that set. This is most frequently used when a given repetition<\/em> is made up of more than one problem, such as in a 4×4.\u00a0<\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Set: <\/strong>The foundation of a workout. A set<\/em> is made up of a number of reps<\/em>, and is targeted at a particular training goal.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Wingspan:<\/strong> The distance from the tip of\u00a0one middle finger measured to the other when your arms are outstretched. Typically referred to as a ratio of wingspan to height in inches. For example, a climber with a height of 5’8″\u00a0and a 5’10” reach from fingertip to fingertip, would be said to have a “+2” wingspan.\u00a0Replaces the outdated, and somewhat offensive term ape-index.<\/em><\/p> \u00a0<\/strong><\/p> Reachy<\/strong>: A reference to a move being\u00a0more difficult because of the distance between hand holds.\u00a0Typically, a truly reachy climb<\/em> would be significantly harder (i.e. be considered a harder grade) for people with \u201c0\u201d or negative wingspans.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t All material is reprinted with the permission of the author. Copyright 2022 David H. Rowland. All rights reserved.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" All sports have their jargon and climbing is no exception. In fact, climbing is more saturated with jargon than any other sport we know. What follows is a very brief Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":33034,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[204],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-33232","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beginner"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nGeneral Workout Terms<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Other Terms<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t