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The Best 4 Fitness Goals for Climbers

Fitness Goals Explained

The motivation for our training model came from years of watching climbers on both routes and boulder problems. We examined in detail the different types of “fitness” they need in order to complete their projects. After much research we found that the number of core fitness goals for each discipline (bouldering and routes) was four, with a couple of others as support goals.

 

We will examine the different goals in each discipline, what motivates them and the basic idea for how they can be trained. 

Routes

Despite what many believe, training for routes is not terribly different from training for bouldering. In fact, route climbing involves nearly all of the same goals as bouldering. They are power, strength/recruitment and hypertrophy.

 

The reason for this that your overall ability to climb hard is limited, primarily, by your power. Increase your power, and you will increase your grades. And increasing your power requires increasing your muscle mass and your recruitment. This is true for routes as well as for bouldering. 

 

But, when you are ready to tie-in to a rope, and your power has reached a maximum for a cycle, you may find that your endurance (i.e. your ability to do a large number of moves in a row) is lacking. In addition, in bouldering, the problems are so short that resting on a climb is rarely helpful. On routes, climbers must be able to get some rest (or recovery) while climbing, otherwise exhaustion will quickly exhaust your power reserves.

 

To address this problem when training for routes, we modify our goals. We must account for longer stretches of “hard” climbing (15-60 moves), and the inability to “step off the wall” to get a rest.   

Goal #1: Power (Short Cruxes)

As we have said, power for routes serves essentially the same purpose as in bouldering. The need to be able to do ultra-short sequences of hard moves. Just as with bouldering, this is typically the defined “crux” of a route, sequences of 1-3 moves. 

Goal #2: Power Endurance (Longer, Consistent “Red-Point” Cruxes).

Just as with bouldering, on routes not all cruxes are created equal. While “powerful” cruxes tend to be short (1-3 moves) and at your limit, and “bouldery” cruxes only slightly longer (3-8 moves), many crux sections on routes can reach 15 to 25 moves of consistent difficulty. On such sections the limiting factor tends to be your body’s ability to prevent a pump from occurring. This is for as long as possible, while climbing at, or near, your consistent red-point level. 

 

Power endurance training focuses on such sections and on reducing, or eliminating, the pump. This is so you can keep fighting at 85-90% effort over these longer sequences. 

 

From a physiological perspective, the goal is to train your body to both use your strength efficiently. This reduces the overall number of muscle fibers you need, on average, to complete a longer sequence. Additionally, it creates chemicals (such as buffering agents) to help reduce the risk of exhaustion during that section.  

 

There is, however, a limit to how long you can stave off a pump under these extreme conditions. At high levels of difficulty, you will quickly run out of unused muscle to recruit. Also, your store of chemical buffers will dry up, leading inevitably to the dreaded flash-pump and failure. To mitigate this risk and preserve your resources, we must also train for long endurance.

Goal #3: Long Endurance (Long, Sustained Sections of Pumpy Climbing)

Power endurance aims to train your ability to prevent a pump over the course of a long, bouldery crux (15-25 moves). Long Endurance trains your ability to tolerate a pump over even longer, though less difficult, sections (30-60 moves). 

 

This goal is derived from the observation that, unlike boulder problems, where it is quite common to have 8-12 moves of similar difficulty in a row, routes are rarely so simple.

Length

First, due to their length, routes often cover a wider variety of terrain than boulder problems. It is common to have routes that start as slab, transition to vertical or slightly overhanging, move into a steep section, then back to vertical or slab.

 

This leads to a situation where the physical difficulty of a route (as opposed to its technical difficulty), can vary widely from section to section. Moving, for instance, from easy climbing, to onsight level, to defined crux, to red-point crux, back to easy, and so on. 

Energy

Second, it is also common for routes to have long sections (e.g. 30-40 moves) of moderate difficulty followed by shorter, well-defined power or power endurance cruxes, and vice versa.

 

As a result, climbers need to have energy reserves to make it through these sections. They also need have something leftover for the crux or the finish of the route. 

 

Physiologically, the purpose of long endurance training is, primarily, to improve the efficiency of the anaerobic energy systems in the body. An example of this is to provide energy to your muscles without using oxygen. The value of this system is that it can quickly convert resources into energy, facilitating longer climbs at higher difficulties. The price you pay is that, without oxygen, these systems create by-products that tend to pile up. This interferes with energy transfer, eventually causing a pump and, in the end, muscle failure.  

 

A secondary benefit of this training is to increase the contribution of the aerobic system to your overall performance—i.e. using oxygen to create energy. The benefit here is that using oxygen produces no nasty by-products, and therefore no pump!

 

Unfortunately, this system is generally too slow to meet all of your energy needs for sustained, difficult climbing. As a result, you will eventually need a method to rest your muscles while on route. This helps to replenish your reserves and to clear out the by-products that stifle energy production.  

 

This leads to our final training goal.

Goal #4: Recovery (Resting While on Route)

The last critical piece for routes is to be able to rest without getting off the wall. This goal, as we have mentioned, is where route training significantly differs from bouldering. For most boulder problems, “shaking out” simply is not helpful. But, on routes, it is a critical skill to master. 

 

Recovery training focuses on two main areas. The first is shaking out at a good hold (like a jug you can match). The second is shaking out during movement, or what we sometimes call, Red River Shakes.

 

The purpose of recovery sets is to train your body to relax at a rest hold. Or even between moves, encouraging blood to flow into tired muscles. This removes problematic by-products and brings in fresh resources to create more energy. In this way, after a long pumpy section, you can “reset” your muscles to perform better during the next section. Or, during a moderately difficult section, you can reduce your level of pump, preserving more energy for tougher sequences up ahead.  

 All material is reprinted with the permission of the author. Copyright 2022 David H. Rowland. All rights reserved.

Dave Rowland

Dave is an Owner & COO of the Philadelphia Rock Gyms and Program Director & Founder of the PRG Climbing School & Climbing Team. For over 25 years, he has helped world-class and aspiring rock climbers alike pursue their passion and achieve their goals. When not at work, Dave is out at the crag--climbing and cleaning new routes, eagerly awaiting the day his son is big enough to be his rope gun.

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Terms and Conditions

Philadelphia Rock Gyms (“PRG”) provide membership plans to allow customers access to our various climbing facilities during normal operating hours.

By accepting these Terms and Conditions, which govern our membership plans, you (“Client”) agree to the following:

  1. Membership

    • For all membership plans, provided that you, the Client, are not in default and subject to these Terms and Conditions after the initial term commitment of your membership plan has expired, your membership will automatically renew monthly until terminated. You will be notified of rate increases at least 30 days before automatic rollover renewal.
    • Automatic Monthly Rollover may be canceled with a written notice delivered to your home facility’s address. Cancelation requests must be submitted by the 25th of the month to cancel for the consecutive month after the initial term is complete.
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    • PRG may occasionally present special promotional offers, plans, or memberships (“Offers”). PRG determines offer eligibility at its sole discretion, and we reserve the right to revoke an Offer and put your account on hold if we determine you are not eligible. Members of households with an existing or recent PRG membership may not be eligible for certain introductory Offers. The eligibility requirements and other limitations and conditions will be disclosed when you sign-up for the Offer or in other communications.
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    • Billing Cycle. The membership fee for PRG and any other charges you may incur in connection with your use of the service, such as initiation fees, maintenance fees, or possible transaction fees and taxes, will be charged to your Payment Method on the specific payment date indicated when you purchased your membership plan. The length of your billing cycle will depend on the type of membership plan that you purchase. Membership fees are fully earned upon payment. Sometimes, your payment date may change, for example, if your Payment Method was not successfully settled when you changed your membership plan or if your paid membership began on a day not contained in a given month. We may authorize your Payment Method in anticipation of membership or service-related charges through various methods, including authorizing it up to approximately one month of service as soon as you sign up.
    • Payment Methods. To purchase a PRG membership plan, you must provide one or more accepted Payment Methods. You authorize PRG to charge any Payment Method associated with your account in case your primary Payment Method is declined or no longer available to us to pay your membership fee(s). You remain responsible for any uncollected amounts. Suppose payment is not successfully settled due to expiration or insufficient funds, and you do not cancel your account. In that case, we may suspend your access to all PRG locations until we have successfully charged a valid Payment Method. For some Payment Methods, the issuer may charge you certain fees, such as foreign transaction fees or other fees relating to processing your Payment Method. Check with your Payment Method service provider for details.
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    • Cancellation. After the initial term commitment of your membership plan has expired, all membership plans will automatically renew every month until terminated. Automatic Monthly Rollover may be canceled at any time upon a written notice delivered to your home facility’s address. Notice must be given by the 25th of the month.
    • Suppose you wish to cancel your membership before your membership plans’ initial term commitment. In that case, you may cancel by delivering in person or by mailing by certified mail, return receipt requested, or written notice to the Philadelphia Rock Gym (PRG) at your home PRG facility’s address. The notice must say that you do not wish to be bound to the membership Terms and Conditions and must be delivered in person or mailed before 12 midnight of the third business day after you agree to the Terms and Conditions of your membership plan.
    • In some cases, you may also cancel your membership before the initial term commitment is expired if you accepted these Terms and Conditions before the home climbing facility was completed, if the facility moves or goes out of business, if you become permanently disabled, or if you move outside of an additional forty-five-mile radius from your home PRG facility. If you cancel, PRG may be entitled to collect and/or retain a certain portion of the total membership plan price.
    • i. Client can cancel their membership without penalty within three business days of purchase and accepting the Terms and Conditions. Upon receipt of the cancellation notice under this paragraph, PRG shall refund the Client all monies, including any initiation fee paid under the membership plan.
    • ii. Client is permitted to cancel their membership if PRG closes for more than 30 consecutive days and PRG fails to provide a comparable facility within ten miles of the location designated as your home facility. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund to the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term and multiplying the result by the number of weeks elapsed in the membership term.
    • iii. Client or his/her legal representative may cancel their membership if the Client dies or becomes permanently disabled. A permanent disability means a condition that precludes the Client from using one-third or more of the facilities for six consecutive months or more, and the condition is verified in writing by a physician. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term and multiplying the result by the number of weeks elapsed in the membership term, less a predetermined fee not exceeding $100.00, or if more than half of the life of the membership plan has expired, a predetermined fee not exceeding $50.00. In case of a permanent disability, PRG may require the Client to submit to a physical examination by a physician agreeable to the Client and PRG. PRG shall bear the additional cost of the examination.
    • iv. Client may cancel their membership if he/she moves more than 45 additional miles from their PRG home facility and cannot transfer the membership to a comparable facility within ten miles of his/her new residence. The client must provide proof of a new address. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund to the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed as of the date of relocation by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term, less a predetermined fee not exceeding $100.00, or if more than half of the life of the membership plan has expired, a predetermined fee not exceeding $50.00.
    • v. To cancel your membership according to paragraphs (i), (ii), (iii), or (iv), the Client shall notify PRG of cancellation in writing by personal delivery or by certified mail, return receipt requested, in either case to the address of your home facility; all money to be refunded upon cancellation of the Membership plan shall be paid within 40 days of receipt of the notice of cancellation. If the Client has executed a credit, lien, or automatic funds transfer agreement with PRG to pay for PRG services, any negotiable instrument or credit of lien agreement executed by the Client shall be returned, and any automatic transfer shall be canceled within 40 days after the notice of cancellation.
    • Changes to the Price and Membership Plans. PRG reserves the right to change our membership plans or adjust pricing for our service or any components thereof in any manner and at any time as we may determine in our sole and absolute discretion after your initial or renewal term expires. Except as otherwise expressly provided for in these Terms and Conditions, any price changes or changes to your membership plan will take effect following at least 30 days’ email notice to you. You may choose not to accept any price increase by canceling your membership in writing by personal delivery or by certified mail, return receipt requested, in either case to the address of your home facility.  Such termination will become effective thirty days after PRG receives your written notice.
    • No Refunds. Payments are nonrefundable unless otherwise stated in these Terms and Conditions, and unless otherwise provided, there are no refunds or credits for partially used membership periods. Following any cancellation, however, you will continue to have access to your membership through the end of your current billing period. At any time and for any reason, we may provide a refund, discount, or other consideration to some or all of our members (“credits”). The amount and form of such credits, and the decision to provide them, are at our sole and absolute discretion. The provision of credits in one instance does not entitle you to credits in the future for similar instances, nor does it obligate us to provide credits in the future under any circumstance.
  1. Miscellaneous

    • Under these Terms and Conditions, no further payments shall be due to anyone, including any purchaser of any note associated with or contained in these Terms and Conditions, if the home facility ceases operation and fails to offer a comparable alternate location within ten miles of your home facility.
    • If PRG temporarily closes for less than 30 days, the Client shall receive an extension of the membership term equal to the period during which the facility was closed.
    • The Client is permitted to extend the term of the membership plan at no additional cost for some time equal to the duration of a disability where the Client has a disability that precludes the Client from using one-third or more of the facilities for less than six months, and the disability is verified in writing by a physician.

Notice: Any PRG member or customer is subject to all claims and defenses a debtor could assert against the seller of goods or services obtained pursuant hereto or with the proceeds. Recovery hereunder by a debtor shall not exceed amounts paid by such debtor.

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