The total number of possible sets in climbing is as large as your imagination. That being said, the bulk of them are variations off of a few common themes, or patterns, that are tried and true. We use several key patterns frequently, and tend to build sets off of these by varying details like difficulty, volume, and rest.
The following are the most common workout patterns we use and how they work.
4x4
In its basic form, a 4×4 is sending four different problems, one after the other (which is one rep), resting, then repeating that process three more times for a total of 4 reps. For example: choose a V4, V5, V4 and V3, try to send or complete each one, in order, with no rest in between (except what you get walking from one problem to the next). Then rest and do three more reps of those same problems.
Alternate versions of this set include, 4×3, 4×2, 3×4 and 3×3, meaning 4 problems 3 reps, 4 problems 2 reps, 3 problems 4 reps, and 3 problems 3 reps, respectively.
Triples
A Triple is the term we use to indicate doing a single climb three times in a row, rather than three different climbs in a row, like a 3×3. Triples come in more than one flavor.
A Triple-Triple is choosing 3 different problems and climbing each one 3 times in a row before moving on to the next one. In addition, in this set there is no rest while repeating a given climb. Instead, once you reach the top of a given problem, you downclimb to the start and launch right into the second run, and do the same for the third.
A Triple-Up is similar to the previous set, the only difference being that there is no downclimbing. Instead, on any given climb, once you reach the finish of your first run you drop off and immediately get back on for your second, and the same for the third.
Pyramid Sets
Pyramid sets consist of climbing a series of problems in descending order of difficulty and ascending number of repetitions. For example, if we use a target grade of V4 for this set, it would look like:
1 rep x V4
2 reps x V3
3 reps x V2
4 reps x V1
5 reps x V0
In theory, a Pyramid set has no limit on how large its base can be (the largest number of reps). But, in practice, Pyramids generally have a base of 3-5 reps, as in: 1-2-3, 1-2-3-4, 1-2-3-4-5.
Problems may be repeated or all different. For example, in the pyramid above, the five V0s climbed may all be the same V0, or five different V0s, or any combination therein.
A Pyramid that starts at the base is called a Reverse Pyramid.
Timed Pyramid
A Timed Pyramid is similar to a normal Pyramid set, except that we use “minutes on the wall” to measure your reps instead of the number of problems climbed. The most basic pattern is as follows:
Climb for 1 minute without stepping off the wall.
Rest
Climb for 2 minutes …
Rest
Climb for 3 minutes …
Rest
Repeat the above in reverse order.
Timed Pyramids can be modified to go up to 4 or 5 minutes and can be done without the repeats.
10 in 10
One of the simplest sets to get the hang of, 10 in 10 means climbing 10 problems in 10 minutes. This is a self-paced set with no fixed rest interval between problems. You just need to get 10 problems completed in 10 minutes.
This set can be modified to 15 in 15, or 20 in 20, and it is primarily done with boulder problems.
Traverse Into
A Traverse Into is a useful set to build stamina and early season muscle mass. The idea is to choose a boulder problem then build a traverse that leads into the start of that problem, making the climb longer. Then you climb the traverse into the start of the problem you chose and try to send it. The traverse is typically 10-15 moves long.
Repeat Sets
Definitely the simplest climbing set and valuable for building strength as well as reinforcing new techniques. In a Repeat, your task is to send one of your previous red-points again. The most common versions of this set are:
Repeat your 3, 4 or 5 hardest sends
Repeat your 3, 4 or 5 hardest sends twice.
That concludes our discussion of the most common set types we use. There are of course many variations of these patterns, as well as countless other sets that can be used.
All material is reprinted with the permission of the author. Copyright 2022 David H. Rowland. All rights reserved.
