All sports have their jargon and climbing is no exception. In fact, climbing is more saturated with jargon than any other sport we know. What follows is a very brief list of key climbing terms that we use in this guide, and in the gyms, plus a few more just for fun.
General Climbing Terms
A Climb: A generic term for a route or a boulder problem.
Boulder Problem: A short climb (typically between 6 and 15 feet above the ground) where falling is typically protected by pads on the ground.
Route: A longer climb (typically 20 feet or more above the ground) where falling is typically protected by a rope.
Send: To complete a climb from start to finish without a fall. (past tense: sent)
Types of Sends:
Onsight: To send a climb you have never been on, seen before, or had any information about on your first attempt.
Flash: To send a climb on your first try having seen someone else on it or having prior information about the climb. Note: Some climbers will use Onsight and Flash interchangeably.
Red-Point: To send a climb without a fall, regardless of the number of attempts or prior information about the climb.
Crux: The most difficult section of a route or boulder problem. Typically used to determine the grade.
Move: The basis for calculating Volume in a workout. One move is defined as the act of taking one hand off its current hold and putting it on another.
Sequence: A series of moves within a route or boulder problem. For example, the crux sequence on a problem would be the hardest set of moves.
Project: A route or boulder problem that you are working on, but have not yet sent. Typically used to set goals.
Grade: The difficulty of a climb. In the U.S., expressed as either a V-grade for bouldering (e.g. V2) or a YDS grade for routes (e.g. 5.8).
General Workout Terms
Repetition: Also called a rep, these are the foundation of a set. One set contains a specific number of reps.
Run: Within a given set, a run is completing a climb that is part of that set. This is most frequently used when a given repetition is made up of more than one problem, such as in a 4×4.
Set: The foundation of a workout. A set is made up of a number of reps, and is targeted at a particular training goal.
Other Terms
Wingspan: The distance from the tip of one middle finger measured to the other when your arms are outstretched. Typically referred to as a ratio of wingspan to height in inches. For example, a climber with a height of 5’8″ and a 5’10” reach from fingertip to fingertip, would be said to have a “+2” wingspan. Replaces the outdated, and somewhat offensive term ape-index.
Reachy: A reference to a move being more difficult because of the distance between hand holds. Typically, a truly reachy climb would be significantly harder (i.e. be considered a harder grade) for people with “0” or negative wingspans.
All material is reprinted with the permission of the author. Copyright 2022 David H. Rowland. All rights reserved.
