For many, lead climbing is what draws us into the sport of rock climbing. Do you ever ask yourself why you climb? What is it about this sport that draws you in? The brutal physicality of it? It could be the puzzling beta. Or you love the community climbing has given you that sense of belonging. Climbing is challenging, rewarding, and scary. If you dig deeper into why you climb, one (or more) of these words will surface.
Lead climbing is a new challenge, delivers a higher sense of accomplishment, and is just scarier than top-rope climbing! So it makes sense why most climbers eventually get the itch to learn to lead climb. Sound familiar? If so, you’ve come to the right place.
Why do you want to learn?
First, ask yourself, ‘why do I want to learn to lead climb?’. Is it because it looks badass, and you want to look badass too? Is it because you crave climbing outdoors but are limited to going with friends who already know the ins and outs of outdoor sport climbing? Maybe you want to learn how to push yourself physically and mentally to become a better climber. Whatever the reason, identify it. If your reasoning lies somewhere in the realm of ‘because it’ll make me a better climber,’ then you’re on the right track. Once you nail down the ‘why,’ you can tackle any challenges once you start lead climbing.
Are you physically ready?
That is the big question. It’s essential to be physically ready to lead climb. Lead climbing is much more complicated than top-roping. Holding a hold with one hand for a few seconds while making a clip exerts a lot of energy. Getting outrageously pumped lead climbing for the first time is expected. Most people will say you must feel comfortable top roping 5.10 before learning to lead climb, but it varies. If your desire for lead climbing lies in sport climbing outside the local crag, some might even say you must feel confident top roping 5.11 because outside sport climbing grades are often much more challenging than inside your gym. Many gyms will require the participant to climb on a 5.10 route for their lead climbing test, which is why 5.10 is the golden standard. But many climbers have also started their climbing journey leading outside on 5.7! While lead climbing does involve increasing the intensity from top-rope climbing, no one grade will determine if you are ready to lead climb. Chat with an instructor at your local gym and see what the standards are for their lead test.
Are you mentally ready?
The last question to ask yourself is, ‘am I mentally prepared to learn to lead climb?’. While you must be physically prepared to lead climb, one might argue that, even more importantly, you must be mentally ready to lead climb. When you are lead climbing, you are climbing above your last point of contact with the wall. This results in a much larger fall, also known as ‘a whip’, and the risk of hitting the rope or the wall in an uncomfortable and potentially dangerous fashion exists. Taking whips can be scary, especially if the fall zone is less than ideal. But, the higher risk of lead climbing yields a more excellent feeling of reward at the top, which is why lead climbing is the preferred method for many climbers.
Additionally, lead belaying is a much more involved skill than top-rope belaying. You must manage the slack in your system and stay aware of the climber’s position, fatigue, and other environmental factors. It’s a lot!
Sign-up for that class!
There is no right time to start lead climbing. It is always on a case-by-case basis for each climber. Once you run through all these questions, you will likely figure out whether you are ready to sign up for that lead climbing class.
