While starting with double dynos is a good way to get the feel for the movement, and develop your chops, the single dyno is where you will get the most mileage from dynamic moves.
This is the most common form of dyno, but is in some ways the hardest to teach. And the hardest to differentiate from a deadpoint.
Basic Single Dynos
In its basic form, a single dyno has at least one foot remain on the wall while you throw for a single finish hold.
A good way to think of this move is like a deadpoint on overdrive (or if you prefer, a deadpoint is kind of like a dyno-light). The same motion applies. But, because dynos enable greater distances to be covered, they require more energy and greater attention to details regarding body position and timing.
It should go without saying that, like all dynamic moves, dynos (single and double) must be performed in one fluid motion from start to finish. Don’t think of it as a series of steps with pauses in between. Pausing kills momentum, and dynamic moves, by definition, require momentum!
Difference Between Deadpointing and a Single Dyno
The fact is that many climbers would argue that this form of “dyno” is really no different than a deadpoint. They follow an almost identical pattern.
In my experience, however, there are moves that require a certain level of mental and physical commitment. There is almost an intent to jump that therefore have a different feel than your typical deadpoint.
Much like the basic double dyno, these moves are often “you miss, you fall”, and the finish hold is at the limit of your reach.
Read about the difference between double dynos and deadpointing here.
All Points Off Single Dyno
Unlike its lightweight cousin above, this move is unmistakably a dyno. It has the most obvious difference from a deadpoint. Both feet leave the wall, just like an all points off double dyno except that you are only aiming for a single finish hold.
If you have already mastered the previous dynos, then, perhaps without even realizing it, you’ve mastered this one as well! The movement is the same, the feel is the same, and only the end goal is a single handhold.
Congratulations…you can throw!
All material is reprinted with the permission of the author. Copyright 2022 David H. Rowland. All rights reserved.
